Blog Archives
Roma Gastronomica!
Thank you to Jenna Hogan and Julie Richey for this post!
Palatium Regional Enoteca Via Frattina 94 Tel. 06 692.02132
Very long regional wine list (ask them to recommend). Just a few blocks from the Spanish Steps.
Great locally-sourced food. If they have stuffed squash blossoms on the menu, GET THEM! Delish. Everything there is delicious. You should probably get a reservation. It’s pretty small. I think they are closed Sundays. Open for weekday lunches and dinners, and Saturdays.
Spirito Di Vino Via dei Genovesi, 31 Tel.06 5896689 **** You MUST have a reservation to dine here – they are so popular, they lock the doors and only let in the folks with reservations.
Located in Trastevere, the hip and oldest neighborhood of Rome. I would take a taxi there, since it’s a bit tricky to find and not in the main historic center. Absolutely great food, wonderful owners – a husband, wife and their grown son. We ate there twice on my trip. Their wine cellar, located below the restaurant level, is older than the Colosseum! The building once housed Rome’s oldest synagogue. They make a stewed beef dish that utilizes the recipe from the Roman emperor’s time. Juniper berries, etc. They can also call a taxi for your ride home if you just ask them at the end of your meal. For a great evening, make the trip to Trastevere and at about 7 p.m., walk through the neighborhood to the church Santa Maria in Trastevere. It’s one of Rome’s oldest churches, and it has a beautiful cycle of mosaics depicting the life of the Virgin Mary. It’s really glorious when lit. You might need to put some coins in the light meter at the front of the church. From there, it’s a pretty easy walk to Spirito Divino.
La Berninetta Via P. Cavallini, 14 Tel. 06 3204405
This restaurant was recommended by our hotel owner. I’ve been there with the family, with my clients all three years, and with my girlfriends. It’s very much a local place – although they have English menus, you see almost exclusively Romans here. They have pizzas, pastas, meat, and a selection of home made desserts. Very reasonable prices. Located just one block off the Tiber River on the St. Peter’s side, as you walk down the Via del Corso past the Richard Meier building containing, the Ara Pacis (worth a peek if you have time). I think they’re closed Tuesdays. (Cross the Tiber River on Ponte Cavour, turn right along the river, then the first street on the left as it leads down away from the river, you will see the restaurant sign)
Orso 80 Via dell’Orso 33 Tel. 06 6861710
In a tiny side street a few doors down from the Portuguese church. They have a huge array of vegetable plates, which they bring to you family style. You can eat just antipasti and be filled with veggies and not even need pasta or meat. Order wine from the list; their house wine isn’t very good. Very friendly service. The owner’s name is Maria, I believe.
A great place for lunch is Obikà, a fresh mozzarella and salad bar. They have more than one location in Rome. One is in Campo dei Fiori, near the Piazza Navona; the other is in Piazza Firenze. Piazza di Firenze 26 on the corner with Via dei Prefetti. 06 6832630 You can order all kinds of fresh Italian cheeses and meats, as well as a big salad. Try getting a platter that contains all kinds of cheeses and meat selections. They have a nice shaded patio outside on the Piazza Firenze location.
Also in Rome:
The Palazzo Barberini is a beautiful small museum with works by Raphael, da Vinci and others. It’s about a one hour visit – and there’s a great little restaurant right across the street called Taverna Barberini. Their restaurant is one level downstairs from the street. Great food and friendly service. Also one of the most modern, clean, and FREE bathrooms in Rome. But it’s only convenient if you’re in that neighborhood, of course! When you see old family crests with bees on them, this is a Barberini family crest.
The Galleria Borghese and the park it’s in are also lovely. You have to have a reservation for tickets and collect them 1/2 hr before your appointment time. Each group of visitors gets 2 hrs. There are two floors. The most amazing Bernini statues and an entire room of Caravaggio paintings! You can purchase tickets online, or ask the concierge at your hotel if they can call Galleria Borghese and get you reserved tickets. Don’t show up late! You must collect your tickets 1/2 hr before the time of your entrance ticket. There is a little cinema cafe in the Borghese Gardens. I don’t know if it’s open in winter – maybe not? If you walk the shaded road that is leading directly out of the front door of the gallery, you will climb a slight rise on the path and to the right is the little Cafe delle Rose. It’s with the cinema. You can have light sandwiches and drinks and coffee. http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/einfo.htm
If you are down near the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo, the Museum of the Ara Pacis is cool. Right on the Tiber River where the bridge (Ponte Cavour) crosses the Tiber. That’s also the bridge you cross to get to La Berninetta Restaurant. Ara Pacis is very small and no line to get in. Downstairs they had a temporary exhibit of how the world media depicts Italy. Not sure if it’s still up. Some really great clippings and photos you’ll remember.
Have a fantastic time, and remember: now it’s forbidden to picnic on monuments. So no eating a sandwich on the Spanish Steps!
MOA Casa
Fall 2011:
28 Oct-7 Nov
Every spring (April) and fall (October) Moa Casa comes to Rome and floods the grounds of Nuova Fiera di Roma with the latest trends in furniture and design. The trade show displays the newest products & services in the interiors and furniture industry, and is a meeting ground for architects, interior designers, product designers.
MAXXI Architecture Visions
The MAXXI in Rome is hosting a free series of architecture films this summer! Five of the six evening events remain, and happen at 8:30p on Tuesdays. Each night a feature-length film or a selection of architecture videos are shown that revolve around a set theme. From what I can discern (from my Rosetta Stone Italian studies), each night a special guest will be present and a discussion follows the viewings.
From MAXXI: “Visions Architecture offers the public a chance to know the projects, works and ideas of the most interesting architecture of the international scene. The program, curated by Marco Brizzi and Paola Ricco, is made with video collected and sorted by Image ARCHIVE to highlight some issues involving contemporary architecture in search of languages and forms of communication through the medium of film.”
26 July 2011, 20.30
PLAYING ON THE SCENE 2/2
YAP Space – free admittance
The relationship between architecture and urban space
Feature Film:Kaspar Astrup Schröder, MY PLAYGROUND, architettura di BIG – Bjarke Ingels Group, DK 2010, 51’00”
13 September 2011, 20.30
THE ARCHITECT’S MICRONARRATIVES 1/2
YAP Space – free admittance
expressing concepts and architectural projects
Video Clips:
- Ortlos Architects, Nick’s Cave Trailer, AT 2006, 3’40”
- 2A+P/A (Gianfranco Bombaci, Matteo Costanzo), Angelo Grasso, Castrum, IT 2009, 6’30”
- Langarita Navarro arquitectos, Langarita-Navarro, the movie, ES 2008, 5’24”
- ARTEFACTORYLAB, HANDS ON, architettura di OLGGA architectes, FR 2009, 3’11”
- Syaa, Paper movie, RO 2008, 3’26”
- BIG – Bjarke Ingels Group, 8-tallet, DK 2008, 14’23”
- Squint/Opera, Birdhouse, UK 2004, 3’51”
20 September 2011, 20.30
THE ARCHITECT’S MICRONARRATIVES 2/2
YAP Space – free admittance
expressing concepts and architectural projects
Feature Film:Laura Harrison, Elizabeth Federici, Space, Land and Time: Underground Adventures with Ant Farm, US 2010, 77’34”
4 October 2011, 20.30
BUILDINGS IN THE SPOTLIGHT 1/2
YAP Space – free admittance
architecture as the protagonist
Video Clips:
- Tronic Studio, Herzog & de Meuron: 56 Leonard, architettura di Herzog & de Meuron, US 2009, 2’06”
- UNIFORM, London Bridge Quarter, architettura di Renzo Piano Building Workshop, UK 2008, 1’07”
- A. P. Komen, Karen Murphy, Music Theatre, architettura di UNStudio, NL 2009, 8’11”
- Luis Urculo, Epsilon Euscadi, architettura di ACXT, ES 2010, 2’57”
- Pedro Kok, Casa das Histórias Paula Rego, architettura di Eduardo Souto de Moura, NL 2009, 1’52”
- Tânia Moreira David, La petite maison An architectural seduction, architettura di Skene Catling de la Peña, UK 2009, 9’57”
- Stack! Studios, Teatro Aix En Provence, architettura di Gregotti Associati International, IT 2003, 3’08”
- Squint/Opera, Olympics 2012, architettura di HOK, UK 2007, 4’52”
11 October 2011, 20.30
BUILDINGS IN THE SPOTLIGHT 2/2
YAP Space – free admittance
architecture as the protagonist
Feature Film: Alena Hanzlova, Kazuyo Sejima, Ryue Nishizawa / SANAA: Zollverein School of Management and Design, architettura di SANAA, CZ 2008, 42’30”
Ten Things to do in Rome
Based on my admittedly too limited experience in this wonderful city, I have compiled a list of ten things everyone should do in Rome.
1. Drink a cappuccino
Every morning in Rome should start out with this famous Italian beverage. There is nothing better than sipping on your cappuccino while watching Romans hustle and bustle through the streets.
2. Visit the Vatican Museum.
The Vatican Museum is best visited early in the morning. If you prefer to sleep in, be prepared to fight crowds. Not only does the tour exhibit the wonders and treasures of the Catholic Church, but it also takes you through the breathtaking Sistine Chapel. Here you can see the famous Creation of Adam.
3. St. Peters
You can exit the Vatican Museum and find your self directly at the steps of St. Peters Basilica. It is one of the largest and most important cathedrals in the world. The basilica is without doubt a must see for any Rome Visit.
4. Lazio Wines
Wherever I go, I try to taste the local wines. This should be done anywhere in Italy, and Rome is no exception.
5. Gelato
Another Italian favorite is their world-class gelato. Most gelato shops offer up tasty treats, but my personal favorite was Blue Ice, which can be found all over the city.
6. Pantheon in the Rain
This famous temple was the largest domed building in the world for centuries. It is one of the most amazing works of architecture I have ever seen. When it rains, water pours in through the occulus in the dome, which is said to be a cool experience to see.
7. Spend Time in Campo de Fiore
During the day, there is a vibrant market set up in this square. Here one can find fresh local vegetables and other foods. There are also several good places to have dinner on this square. My favorite was Saby’s. This square is also a hotspot to go bar hopping later in the night.
8. Dinner at the Peroni Brewery
Not only is the food good here, but you get to try the freshest Peroni beers. My favorite was the Peroni Red, which I have had difficulty finding elsewhere. Beer is like wine and food, always try the local stuff.
9. Sunset at the Spanish Steps
Sunset is the best time to visit this popular tourist attraction. The atmosphere around the steps at this time is very romantic for tourists and Romans alike.
10. Stroll the Ruins at Night
My first night in Rome, I decided to take a walk around the city. I found the way the Coliseum and other Roman ruins look with the eery golden lights shining on them to be quite beautiful. It is important to visit these famous wonders during the day, but if you want to see them in an additional light, then I would recommend taking a stroll.
My World Guide 